This Cheese Club started with a trip to the comfort of the Lactic Vault; warm, moist and dimly lit, like returning to the womb, or at least a nightclub in Darwin. And although not as comforting as the womb, there was a greater choice of company and the wine list was longer.
And so to the cheese:
- Graindorge Calvados Camembert - If I had a dollar for every Cheese Club that started with a French white-moulder, I'd almost be able to buy lunch. Not with a glass of wine perhaps, but certainly a Saigon pork and salad roll. This is a small and fairly stock-standard Camembert with a good depth of flavour - as always the French ones are more salty and intense than the locals - with the bonus of some added interesting brassica smells. They're apparently washed in Calvados, which is something I'm proudly francophilic about, but I can't say it left much of an impression. Nice enough.
- Kefalograviera - This stretched curd, sheep's milk cheese from Greece is a favourite for saganaki, a favourite starter for Melbourne's Greek restaurants whether good or bad. Eaten uncooked and warmed to room temperature it had a strong, thin and unpleasant grip on my tastebuds that was, well, bad. In a word, "don't". I'll have a go at saganaki with it and report back.
- Tomme de Chevre - Some firm, goaty joy from the Poitou-Charentes region of France. Tart, firm and with an intensity and depth of flavour that was like a wake-up call from an angry ungulate. Intense and pointed, with a narrow nuttiness and a lemon-tart, almost caramel rich finish; this was the highlight, at least as far as complexity theory goes.
- Roccolo - a semi-hard cow's milk cheese from Lombardy. Despite its bovine origins, it has the acid, citrus hints of a firmer, older goat cheese. Its texture was firm and crumbly in the middle, moving to a softer ripened edge, while an earthy, damp, soft richness was balanced with a local tang. Not earth shattering, but definitely something to make a glass of sangiovese modestly fantastic.
- Nashua - Oooooh, this is a bit of alright. A bit more than a bit, perhaps. A cute, perky washed rind cheese from New South Wales the size of a small Camembert with the orange tint that tells of its stinky race. Not too orange - the colour of a Neighbours starlet whose publicist knows when to say "enough" to the tanning spray. Unlike a Neighbours starlet, however, this is a meaty and lusciously fat cheese, with enough orange mould to let you know who's boss, but not enough to scare the children. A small step up from a beginner washed-rinder, but not a cheese that could be readily weaponized.
- Gippsland Blue - A soft, buttery and very mild blue that would have been a good end to Dr Johnson's famous dinner that was "...a good dinner enough, to be sure; but it was not a dinner to ask a man to." Mild. Soft. Buttery. A dessert cheese perhaps, but not a soul-wrenching, life-changing alternative cheese from a neighboring yet threatening universe. More a familiar uncle with a cream cardigan, leather patches and a packet of Craven A. A polite blue cheese, which frankly, is too much of a contradiction in terms for me.